Question:
I'd like to fix my Stanley garage door opener bloody well right, but I
don't have the money to replace it just now. The problem is the (IR)
optical sensor set at the base of the rails, which keeps going out. I
replace 'em ($65), they break again. Act like they're operating
properly (beep when you pass an obstacle through the beam) but won't
allow the door to close. No, the path isn't blocked and yes the beam is
aimed properly. I can hold the bleepin' momentary contact switch button
down and close the garage door, and it opens just fine, but what I'd
REALLY like to do is bypass the bleepin' sensor entirely for the time
being. 'Course I imagine that the opener also has a travel resistance
switch in it and it shouldn't absolutely crush anything solid in its
path, but I'd put it to the test before I left it without the bleepin'
optical sensor set.
Anybody know how I can wire the bleepin' thing to bypass the bleepin'
sensor?
Answer:
How do you know that the force sensor in the overhead unit isn't
causing problems? Because holding down the wall button bypasses it as
well, and your door may have too much friction for the current force
setting. Try decreasing the sensitivity by turning the large knob on
the bottom of the overhead unit (the small knobs set the travel
limits) or the dial on the back? Even at the lowest sensitivity, the
sensor provides sufficient protection. But if that doesn't help, you
may have an unbalanced door (should slowly fall when opened about 1/3
and slowly rise when opened 2/3) or too much friction in its rollers
(lube with light mineral oil only) or misaligned rails. For
pivot-mounted doors, lube pivots with mineral oil or spray grease.
I'd first clean the lenses of the optical sensors and aim them more
carefully because even when the indicator light seems to stay on
continuously, it may be flickering on and off rapidly because of
vibration from the door (in some cases the coil springs whip against
them). The next most common problem is a break in the wiring, inside
the insulation, usually where it passes into the box, or a bad solder
joint where the wire connects to the circuit board. These boxes
aren't difficult to open. By the way, are you installing everything
with some slack in the wiring? There's nothing like neat, tight
wiring to cause problems.
